The cartoons call for mounting the valve body FLUSH with the FINISHED WALL. That acts as a stop also for the handle on the Moentrol. Pretty soon I was the T-shooter and I probably replaced 50 shower valve bodies. I do not want to open the wall up so the plumber can correct the pipes. If the diverter sticks too far out and that sleeve is all the way against the diverter, the handle will just spin. That chrome sleeve that the handle rides on is somewhat adjustable. The Shower has been tiled and all that was left to do with the shower was to install the Kohler Valve Trim. What am I doing wrong. Moen supplies what is called a 'plaster ground' with the valve which is a round plastic plate that attaches to the valve. I bought a Moen universal shower handle trim kit because it was really the only thing I saw in a metal finish with that worked with a push/pull shower valve. In some cases, the handle may become tight when turning. Please Help! Do a dry fit with a scrap of dryall, the valve trimmed out, and slide in a piece of tile to see what the finished product will look like. Is there a trim piece I can get to cover this gap between the back plate and the handle? Beside above, how do you test a shower valve? Or sticks out too far? When attempting to install shower body trim I am now realizing that the plumber installed the shower valve too close in the wall cavity and is sticking out too far. All in tiled showers. When this happens, applying excessive force to open the handle can cause internal damage, which can lead to a leak in the valve. The stop tube is correctly intalled and sits completely over the valve stem. The handle sticks out about 3.75 inches+ from the finished wall ( the gap between the handle cover and the wall plate is about 1 1/4 inch. Takes about 2 hours, (after the first 25 or so,) Stick a pencil point into the end of the valvestem as a guide, slip the face over the pencil and mark the circle made by the face. Simple Moen Shower Handle Install Question; Author: Lukester1980 New Shower Install. Its not set in stone. I think there is a tolerance 1/2" each way. Why is there a gap between the handle and the escutcheon of my one-handle shower faucet? All the pro plumbers said if the valve body is installed per the instructions, it sticks out too far, exposing too much shaft on the shower handle. When I try to install the handle over the stop tube, the handle sticks way out and doesn't come even close to being flush with the round trim plate. I no longer have access to the valve itself since dry wall, thinset, kerdi, and more thinset is surrounding the valve stem coming out of the wall. I got hired as a commercial plumber on a 500 unit job. Like all things that are frequently used and have moving parts, these shower handles can become worn down, clogged and damaged over time. To far away from shower wall? 459 people found this answer helpful There is a gap in this location to ensure the screws on the escutcheon do not interfere with the operation of the handle. The design I think is to allow leeway. However...the mixer valves (2) were not set correctly and they are sticking out too far. When the valve trim is installed, there is still 1 1/4 inches between the trim and the finished wall. Some pull-out handles, such as those on many Price Pfister showers, can slowly become harder to pull out over time.A cartridge replacement can solve the problem, but often so can a little lubrication. The problem is that this is WRONG and if you follow the cartoons to the letter, the valve handle WILL stick out too far. Don't struggle with a stiff pull-out shower handle when a little silicone grease can fix it. ... 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